Shoe-sewing machine



W. C. MEYER. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, I916- RENEWEDJUNE 17, I920.

1,41 1,798. r v Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

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W. CPMEYER. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, I916- RENEWEDxuivc i1, 19 2o.

1,411,798. 1 Patented 1111114119221 '17 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

wwrzzfar v W. C. MEYER. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION nugn MAY 6.1916. mm JUNE 17. 1920.

1,41 1,798; Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

I? SHEETS-SHEET 4- W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAYB. 191e, RENEWED JUNE 17. 1920.

1,41 1,798. Patented Apr- 4, 1922.

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SHOE SEWlNG MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY6. 191s.

RENEWED JUNE 17. I920.

Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

17 SHEETSSHEET 6.

Win/666 W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE- APPLICATION FILED MAY 6. 1916. RENEWED JUNE 17,1920'.

W. C. MEYER. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, 1916. RENEWEDJUNE 1?. 1920.

Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

11 SHEETS-SHEET 8- w. c. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, I916- RENEWED JUNE 17. 1920. 1,41 1,798,Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

17 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, 1916- RENEWED JUNE n, 1920 W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION mm) MAY e, 1916. RENEWED JUNE 17,1920.

1,41 1,798. Patented Apr. 4, 1922,

I7 SHEETS SHEET I I. G-264 W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6,1916- RENEWED JUNE 11,1920.

17 SHEETS-SHEET l2.

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SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION man MAY a, 1916. RENEWED was 11, 1920.

Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

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W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6, 1916- RENEWED JUNE 17.I920- 1,41 1,79 Patented Apr. 4, 1922 H SHEETS-SHEET H- W. C. MEYER.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAY 6. 1916. RENEWED JUNE 12,1920.

Patented Apr. 4, 1922..

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APPLICATION FILED MAY 6. 1916. RENEWED JUNE II. 1920.

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I SHOE SEWING MACHINE APPLICATION FILED MAY 6.1916- RENEWED JUNE17,1920.

1,41 1,798. v Patented Apr. 4, 1922.

i7 SHEETS-SHEET l7- end of the-welt in proper relation to omriso STATES.

wiLLrn /r cj MEYER, or BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIeNon, BY MESNEASSIGN- lATENT OFFICE.

MENTS, TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COB-PGRJaTION, OF PATEBSON, NEW JERSEY,

A GORI ORA IION OF NEW JERSEY.

SI-IOE-SE"WING MAGHINE,

.1 irlines.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 4., 1922.

Application filed. May 6, 1916,5eria1 No. 95,893. Renewed June 17, 1920.Serial No. 389,774.

To all whom it may concern:

} Be it known that I, lVILLmM (J. MEYER, a citizen of the United States,residing at Beverly, in the county of E sex and State of Massachusetts,have inv .rd certain new and useful Improvementsin Shoeficwing Machines;and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in theart to which it appertains to'make and use the same.

This invention relates to shoe machines and more particularly to shoesewing machines of the type provided with a curved hook needle andemployed in sewing inseams of shoes. Certain features of the invention,

however, may be embodied in other types of shoe sewing machines, andcertain features may be embodied in other machines for insertingfastenings in the parts of shoes.

One object of the invention is to provide shoe sewing machines forsewing inseazns of welted shoes with novel and improved devices forsevering the Well; at a suitable dis tance from the end of the inseamafter the inseam is sewn, and for presenting the free end of the welt inproperrelation to the shoe at the'beginning of the sewing of the seamand holding it in position to be sewn until the welt is attached to theupper and insole by one or more stitches,

In the present embodiment of the invention the machine is provided withwelt gripping devices for gripping and holding the welt, welt cuttingdevices for severing the welt adjacent the end of the inseam at thecompletion of the sewing operation, and a supplemental welt holder forholding the the shoe during the first part of the seam formation. Duringthe normal operation of the machine the welt gripping and welt cuttingdevices and the supplementary welt holder are all retained in aninactivecondition. As the machine is stopped at the completion of a sewingoperation, the welt gripping and welt cutting dev ces areautomaticallyplaced in an operable condition and are thrown into operation by thedrawing forward of the.

operative positions. the welt gripping devices grip the welt in advanceof the needle, and the weltcutting devices sever the welt in advance ofthe welt gripping devices at a suitable distance from the end of the completed inseam. F or the sake of simplicity in the construction andoperation of the welt gripping and cutting devices, and in order toenable the welt to be held in proper position against the upper, closeto the point of operation of the needle during the formation of thefirst stitch, the welt. gripping devices are fixed in the direction offeed and hold the end of the welt only until the new seam is started,after which the supplementary holder is thrown into operationand holdsthe welt against the shoe until one stitch has been completed. -As themachine is started at the heginnin rgof the sewingope:- ation upon ashoe, the welt gripping devices release the welt, preferably alter theneedle has punctured the work in the first cycle of operations, but"before the needle retracts, and the welt cutting and gripping devicesare then retraotedto inoperative positions. As the welt cutting andgripping devices are retracted thesupplementary welt holder is advancedinto engagement with the welt at a point close to the point of operationof the needle, and holds the welt against the upper of the shoe. Duringthe retracting movement of the needle, the welt is h'eld'on one sideoff-the needle by the welt guide and on the other by the supplementarywelt holder, and is thus prevented from being drawn "away from the shoe;In order to draw the welt through the welt guide as the shoeis fedforward during the first stitch formation, and thus to obviate any dragor strain on the welttending to draw the end of the welt away from theshoe at the point where the thread through the work. the welt holder isad vanced in the direction of feed with the shoe the shoe is fed. Afterthe initial feed has taken place and the needle is advanced intoengagement with the work for the formation of the second stitch. thesupplemen tary welt holder is retracted out of operative position andremains inactive during the remainder of the sewing operation.

Another object of the invention is to -pro vide inseam shoe sewingmachines with improved mechanism for advancing and reloop has been drawntracting a work rest such as the welt guide of a welt machine or theback gage of a turn machine and for locking the work rest inadvanced'position during each cycle of operations.

Other objects of the invention are to improve the construction andoperation of various parts of shoe sewing machines with the view ofrendering such machines more reliable, and efficient in operation.

The features of the invention will be readily understood from theaccompanying drawings illustrating a machine embodying the invention inits )referred form, and the following detailed description of theconstructions therein shown.

lnthe drawings, Figure 1 is a view in side elevation of an inseam shoesewing machine embodying the invention leaking from the left side of themachine; Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation of the machine; Fig. 3 is aview in side elevation oi the machine looking from the right; Fig. at isa view-in side elevation of a portion of the machine illus trailingparticularly the welt guide mechanism and certain assoclated parts; Fig.5

p is a detail view in side elevation illustrating the tensiondevices;Fig. 6 is a sectional view takensubstantially on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;Fi T is a detail sectional view taken substantia ly on the line 7-7 ofFig. 5;

Fig. 8 is a plan view illustrating certain parts of the tensionmechanism detached;-

9 is a detail view, partly in elevation F1 and partly in section,illustratin certain parts of the tension mechanism; Fig. 10 is a detailview illustrating the tension mechanism;

certain parts of ig. 11 is a. detail view illustrating certain parts ofthe mechanism shown in Fig. 10; Fig. 12 is a detail View illustratingcertain parts of the tension release mechanism; Fig. 13 is a view inside elevation illustrating particularly the welt grippin and cuttingdevices; Fig. 14

is1 a seotiona view taken substantially on the line 155-141 of Fi 13;Fig. 15 is a sectional view takensu stantially on the line 11) of Fig.23; Fig. 16 is a sectional view taken substantially on the line 16-16otl ig. 15; Fig. 17 is a view in side elevation illustratingparticularly the driving and stopping mechanisms; Fig. 18 is a plan ittion, illustrating particularly the supplementary welt holder and itscontrolling mechanism and thethread gripping devices; Fig. 23 is a viewpartly in plan and partly in horizontal section illustrating the weltgripping and cutting devices, the supplementary welt holder and itsactuating mechanism, the welt guide mechanism and the welt measuringmechanismfFi: 24 is a movement of the supplementary welt holder;

Fig. 26 is a view in rear elevation of the mechanism illustrated in F'.25; 27 is a view in side elevation strating the welt measuringmechanism; Fig. 28 is 9- view in plan of the mechanism illumin ted inFig. 27; Fig. 29 is a detail view inside elevation illustrating theconnection between the welt measuring mechanism and the ten sion releasemechanism; Fig. 30 is a. detail view in side elevation illustrating.portion larly "the thread gripping and cutting devices; Fig. 31 is adetail plan view illustrating the parts shown in Fig. 30, with theportions of the frame to which the are attached omitted for the sake. ofclharness; and Fig. 32 is a view in front elevation of the constructionshown in Fig. 30.

The machine illustrated in the dra-wingfl is a welt shoe sewing machinethe parts of which are constructed and arranged for sewing the welt andupper to the insole oat a lasted shoe. The machine is provided with acurved hooked needle arranged to enter the between substance of theinsole team the outer or marginal side, so that the chain of stitches islaid on the welt, and a curved awl arranged toenter the betweensubstance of the insole on the channel side, a thread arm alooper, atakeup, an auxiliary take up, and a welt guide. These parts have thesame general construction, arrangement and mode of operation as thecorros. ondin parts of the machine illustratcdan descri ed in thepatentgranted to the present applicant, No. 1,059,380, dated April 22,1913. y

The machine is also provided with a tension governor by which thetension on the thread is automaticall varied with any change in thespeed 0 themachine, with locking mechanism for locking the tension wheelfrom rotation during the stitch setting stroke of the takeup, and withtension release mechanism for relieving the thread of tension uponstopping the machine. The tension mechanism has the same generalconstruction and'mode of operation asthc tension mechanism disclosed inthe patent granted to the present applicant, No." 1,160,: 936, datedNovember 16,1915, except that there is no variation in the tensionduring a c cle of operations.

eferring to the drawings, and more particularly to Figs. 1, 2, 3 and at,Qindicates the curved hook needle secured in the usual manner to' aneedle carrier 4: mountedfto oscillate upon a hollow stud (5 (see Fig.22). The needle :arr1er 4t is connected by means of a link 8 (see Figs.3 and i) to one arm of a bell crank lever 10, the other arm of which isconnected by a link l2 to a lever 14 pivoted at 16 at the rear of themachine frame and operated by a cam groove in a cam disc on the mainshaft 1.8 of the machine.

The needle guide 20 is of well known construction, and is secured to orformed integral with a short shaft 22 journaled within the hollow shaftupon which the needle carrier is mounted. The needle guide is actuatedpositively from a cam actuated lever 24.- and a link 26 connectingthelower end of the lever and an arm 28 secured 'to the outer end of theshaft 22. a

The awl 30 of the machine illustrated in the drawings is curved in thearc of a circle of somewhat smaller radius than that of the needle andis mounted tooscillate on an axis slightly below and to the rear of theaxis of the needle. The awl is clampedtc an awl carrier 32 which ispivotally mounted on a stud 3 L projecting from a block mounted upon alaterally movable feed member or lever 36 by which lateral movements areimparted to the awl to feed the work. The awl carrier 32 is connected bymeans of a link 38 (Figs l and 4) to one arm of a bell crank lever ll),the other arm of which is connected by means ofa link 42 to a camactuated lever 43. The link 38 is connected at its respective ends withthe awl carrier and the bell crank lever 40 by universal joints; so asto allow the awl carrier to move in the directionof feed while the bellcrank is fixed or held from movement in that direction. a

The channel guide, indicated at so, is con structed and arranged toengage the channel of a shoe sole in the usual manner, and has the usualmode of operation, that is, it moves with the awl during the feed, andalso'has a movement toward and from the shoe. The channel guide iscarried by the feed member 36, the guide being secured to the blockwhich carries the stud upon. which the awl is mounted. a

The feeding member 86 is mounted so as to be capable of moving laterallyto actuate the and and channel guide to feed the work and. to returnthese parts to'their initial po sitions after the work is fed. To thisend, the feeding member 36 is mounted to slide upon its pivot stud 48,which is secured at one end in the frame of thermachine, the

projecting portion of the stud being somewhatlonger than the bearingportionof the feeding member which slidesuponthe stud to allow for theslidingmovement of said member. The lateral movements are imparted tothe feeding member by means of an actuating lever 50 (see Figs. 2 and 3)pivoted at 52 on the frame of the machinerand having two parallel arms5-ta11d56. The connectionbetween the lever 50 and the feeding member 36consists of a pin 58 clamped in a slotin the arm of the lever. andextending; into a groove in the projection (50 on the feeding member. Byadjusting the the pin in the slot in the arm (at, the feeding movementsimparted to the feeding member 86 may be varied. to give the desiredlength of stitch. The arm 56 of the lever 50 carries a cam roll57engaging in cam groove in a cam diskmounted on the main sh'aft 18whereby oscillating movements are imparted to the lever to rccipro catethe feedingmember 36 longitudinally of the stud 48. To impart a slightinward and outward movementto the chahnel guide,

so as to cause it to release theworir uponits return movement in thedirection-of feed, the feeding member 36 is extended upwardly andrearwardly beyond itspivot, and carries a cam roll 62 engaging a camgroove in a cam disc mounted'on the main shattlS of the machine. a

The thread armof the machine is indicated at 64;. This arm is secured tothe lower end of a shaft 66 (see Figs; 1, 2, 3 and l). mounted in theframe of the machine at a slight inclination to a the vertical. To theupper end of the shaft issecured a laterally extending arm 68 which isconnected by means of a link 70 to a' cam actuated slide 7:2 mounted inguides in. the frame andcarrying at its rear end a cam roll 74 engagingin a cam groove'in a cam disc mounted on (the main shaft.

' s' case a ,zinc consiss 1T610036I'1 indi t l t76 l t of an arm clampedat its upper end to a block or sleeve 78 mounted toslide laterally andto oscillate on a hollow stud St) secured to the frame of the machine.Lateral sliding movements are imparted to the sleeve 78 by means of anarm 82 secured to the forward end of a horizontal rock shaft 8st, andprovided at lower end with a roll 86 engag ing in a vertical slotin thesleeve. This connection between the arm and the sleeve permits thesleeve to oscillate on the stud 80 without interfering withtheconnection between the arm and the sleeve. The rear end of the rockshaft 84: is provided with an arm 88 having a cam roll 90 at its upperend pin 96 which connects the slide 92 with the arm 9i is of sufficientlength to permit the

